Gutsy Cooks Club - Mexican - Chiles en Nogada

September in Mexico is an important month. The Mexicans tend to celebrate a holiday the entire month or at least several weeks. The 15th of September is Independence Day and Chiles en Nogada is the special and sophisticated dish served this month. Quoting from Mexico The Beautiful Cookbook, This dish, resplendent with the red, white and green colors of the Mexican flag, was created by imaginative Augustine nuns of Puebla for a visit by Mexico's very own emperor, Don Austine de Iturbide, who, after the War of Independence lasted a mere eleven months in office (my note: the dish lives on in history). It is featured as a main dish during September, when the new crop of walnuts is available and pomegranates are in season.

I chose to present this dish instead of tamales for my selection this week. As is often true, there are many variations. The basic concept is a roasted poblano chile which is stuffed with a sweet and savory meat, dried fruit and nut filling. A cream walnut sauce is spooned over the top and always pomegranate seeds are sprinkled with parsley. Green chiles, white sauce, red seeds - the flag on a plate. Traditionally the dish is served independently (no pun intended) to be fully appreciated. It is served at room temperature or cold. I prefer room temperature. Although there are numerous steps in the preparation, they all can be done ahead. I have served this dish for a large dinner party - no need to worry about keeping it warm. I did alert guests who might not be aware that it is to be served room temperature that I had not forgotten to heat the dish.

I spread the preparation over a week. My honey had some medical issues last week, so I was somewhat delayed, but it all came together yesterday when we shared with some neighbors. Unfortuately, I didn't have time to take photos of the numerous parts of the recipe.

I look for large, flat and perfectly fresh poblano chiles and roast them on my gas barbeque. I braised a pork shoulder and cut it into small cubes or dice. Some recipes call for ground pork and/or beef, but in reading numerous recipes and notes about this dish, I believe that it is traditional to serve the meat cubed and it gives a nice texture. Onions, garlic are sauteed and then chopped peeled tomatoes, apple, pear, peach, raisins are added. The choice of spices is up to the cook. I like to use allspice, cinnamon, nutmeg, cumin, salt and pepper. A splash of dry sherry gives a lift, as does a bit of apple cider vinegar. There is a lot of tasting and adjusting in the preparation. Also, the cook must remember that it will be served at room temperature, so more seasonings are appropriate. I like to lightly toast slivered almonds to add to the filling just before stuffing the chiles. They add another texture. This is not a spicy filling or picadillo, but one with savory and sweet nuances. The poblano chile gives the kick - some more than others.

The sauce again has many variations. Some cooks use cream and milk. I use sour cream with half and half and queso fresco or feta cheese. The traditional way is to to rub the skin off the walnuts, but since I don't have a dozen nuns to help me, I just process the walnuts with skin. I think most modern cooks do this. Combine the nuts with the cream mixture, taste and add some sherry and salt. Again there is the choice of dipping the stuffed poblano in a batter and frying, much like a chile rellenos. I do not fry. I very much prefer the clean taste of the roasted chile.

So this is my take on a traditional and sophisticated recipe. Some of my Mexican friends are amazed that I will tackle this, but they love to come and taste. If any of you Gutsy cooks are interested in this recipe, I will do my best to organize my many notes and share with you. Just email me - lvinpv@hotmail.com
I will do tamales in the next couple of weeks. I have some mole negro with chicken in the freezer which will be a delicious filling. I can't wait to see the tamales that you talented cooks have prepared. Here we go on to October - it is hard to imagine! Take care and have fun cooking for family and friends, lola